Paris 2017: Versailles

Since this about the one billionth post on the internet about Versailles I'm not going to get too much into it except for a few thoughts.

If you decide not to do a tour private or otherwise, the best advice I have for you is to get up and get there when it opens. You can even eat breakfast there and have espresso on the grounds where Marie Antionette wandered in her gowns. You will get to see most of the place before anyone else arrives. We saw everything we could that was open and spent most of a very full day there walking the grounds, the palace, and all the surrounding buildings. The town of Versailles itself is quite lovely and also worth a bit of a visit. 

It does get to be a lot, I think, especially for Americans as we are not so used to such ornamentation and perhaps our brains reject a lot of it after a while. There are a lot of travel blogs that will condescendingly tell you it's not worth visiting. If you are someone who gets to travel a lot I am sure a palace would bore you. For us normal people it is fascinating to walk around something so lofty in its presence in Western European History and of course, very important to the American Revolution as well, since the French support of the colonies helped bankrupt the country, not really a certain queen's shoe habit. 

I thought the grounds were especially beautiful and I enjoyed the gardens and seeing the animals. 

You will come across people, eventually, and you will hear over and over how everyone wants to live there or be a princess. But for me, I feel differently. The more I visit palaces, castles, and mansions, the more I have begun to realize the untruth of all the beauty. The dark secrets and disturbing histories of the people who dwelt in these works of art, as if majesty could cover the ugliness of their deeds. Of course, in this case it didn't last, as the French Revolution unfolded in the most dramatic of ways on these grounds as well. I also once again found myself questioning the wisdom of a species having all these grand empty buildings that we dedicate so many resources to while millions of people are homeless and starving. And don't think I'm only thinking about this in terms of France. I think about it terms of all places. I wonder how the future will judge us for such things. 

But perhaps that is the draw of it: the darkness. To wonder if something of beauty can come out of such misdeeds and horror. If we could hide from the problems of the world like the monarchy did, like the very wealthy do now, unaffected by the sickness, war, and misery. It is an entitlement I do not comprehend, to be sure. Even when the world overwhelms me with its unrelenting hurt. 

The truth is, art can relieve a little pain, and a touch of escapism is needed to survive a day. At this point there is not quite anywhere like France for such things. And Versailles is filled with art, pastries, and flowers, even as the ghosts of the damned wander around you.

A Look Back: Paris 2017

For all the crap things that happened in 2017, the really bright spot in my life was traveling. Starting first and foremost this time around with Paris - somewhere I have wanted to visit my whole life. When a dream is fulfilled, it's a strange feeling to not have a longing in your heart that has been such a part of you for most of your life.

I've already written some about Paris, such as the amazing vegan food. And about a few of the fascinating places I visited such as Marie Curie's lab and office . As well as my visit to painter Gustave Moreau's home and workspace.

I wanted to write a little bit about where we stayed. We picked a beautiful little apartment off of Air BnB in the Latin Quarter of Paris, which was not far from a lesser known, very unique collection of museums you should visit to get off the beaten path, such as the Gallery of Paleontology and Comparative Anatomy. There are more places we visited in this collection of institutions and I will write about them later this week. 

The building we stayed in ended up being a landmark itself, on Rue Mouffetard, and it was from the 17th century, the oldest street in Paris. Some parts of the building it was evident how old it was, such as in the staircase, but in our rented place it was magical fairy tale space perfect for drinking champagne and eating baguette when your feet were too sore from the thousands of steps you've taken to drink in every bit of Paris you can each day. The neighborhood was filled with small, beautiful shops and a bakery right around the corner crowded with people as soon as the work day let out. There is something magnificent about the smell of fresh bread late in the day. Since I associate it with waking up it seemed as if the best part of the day was just getting started. Plus, you'd often have a crusty left over for the morning to have with jam. 

It was just far enough away from all the main tourists' area to get a real sense of how people live in the city, but close enough that it was not difficult to get around. As soon as we arrived and dropped our things off we walked down to Norte Dame and had coffee and snacks as we drank in the atmosphere of the famous Shakespeare and Company. It took abut 30 minutes or so, but it was grand to stop and look all around the neighborhoods. 

If you want a charming, petite place to stay in an old, lively, neighborhood I highly recommend this area. You're also never far from champagne shops, bars, and easy to shop grocery stores with gorgeous strawberries.

Weekend Road Trip: The Paine

Back in August while on my way to chase the eclipse, I took a side stop to a place I didn't know existed until a photographer I fell in love with a couple of years ago announced she was having a show there. The Paine is an English style estate in the small town of Oshkosh, Wisconsin. Which is actually a pretty famous place for other reasons and I'll write about that soon. 

Kirsty Mitchell created a magnificent body of work after a personal loss titled Wonderland. It is glorious to behold and if you can make it to the final weekend of the exhibit to see it, I really can't encourage you enough. The Paine its self is also a lovely place though I do wonder to the wisdom of building a house so large that no one lives in. It is lovely to look at and they do host events there too. It's worth a visit if you are in the area. Especially if you like details. Which I do. 

See some of the house and work here:

What to Eat Wednesday but on Tuesday: MN State Fair

I’ll start with the food.

 

New Things We Tried: 

Produce Exchange- The peaches are amazing. They have lots of other fruit as well.

Fresh French Fries-These were quite good and not as greasy as I thought they would be. 

Harry Singh’s-Chickpea Roti was so good that we went back so my friend could take one home for dinner. (The little restaurant in Minneapolis is stellar.)

Minneapple pie no ice cream-I bought one to bring home.

Farmer’s Union Iced Coffee with soy milk-dark roast with soy milk was great.

Strawberries and Creme-non-dairy whip-I loved this a lot.

Island Noodles-I do like wok-fried noodles. Very filling. (They also use compostable containers.) 

Dole Whip-Three of us split one. It was sugary and fun. I don’t think I’d get it again though just not for me. The vanilla is not vegan from what I understand.

Fried Green Tomatoes(small stand by main entrance)-was surprised that I liked these more than I thought.

Manny’s Tortas-Non-alcoholic Pineapple Pina Colada-this was fantastic. 

Sara’s Tipsy Pies-The Vegan Whiskey apple pie was fabulous. I loved it. 

Juanita’s Fajitas -beans with tortilla-add some habanero salt and it’s super yummy(request without cheese).

 

Things we’ve had before other places:

Tot Boss-plain tater tots

Cinnamon Roasted Almonds in the International Bazaar

French Meadow-brown sugar scone

Holy Land-all their vegan things which I highly recommend.  

Falafel King (which has improved dramatically over the last few years)

 

I was disappointed to learn that Hot Indian Foods samosas are no longer vegan. 

 

Things we didn’t try but I’ve read other people say are vegan:

Corn Roast-no butter

St. Martin’s Olives

Los Ocampos -Guac and chips

Veggie Pie’s -Frozen Grapes on a Stick

Burrito Mercado- Chili lime mango

Sonny’s Sprials-Potato on a stick

Preferred Pickles fried pickles

Ballpark Cafe – Onion rings, garlic fries

Chan’s Chicken on a Stick – Vegetable Fried Rice

Oodles of Noodles – Spicy Thai Noodles, spaghetti or penne with marinara

OOF-da Tacos – Vegetarian Taco without cheese

Potato Man and Sweety-Sweety’s Churros without whipped cream, unsure about dipping sauce

 

**Please consider rinsing and bringing home containers you cannot recycle at the Fair (I had a tote bag and would just rinse things in the bathroom or hand wash stations) or requesting no silverware or straws by keeping the first plastic ones you get. Nearly everything has a number on it, but they don’t have the same facilities as we do in Minneapolis. 

Thank you.

 

 

I’ve never spent the day at the fair and truth be told it was pretty surreal to me. I decided to try to see as much as possible but I do not go to the animal barns. I just can’t. 

That said, there is plenty to see that is not about having to eat animals. The Horticulture building is pretty amazing and there is quite a lot of art. 

I know lots of people go here with families and situations like that and there’s no need to be left out if you’re vegan or vegetarian. And for that matter, the more vegan things that sell, the more they’ll make. The Tipsy Pies were sold out at first but they made more. Pretty great, as they are clearly marked vegan on the menu. The french fries had lines all around.

Your best bets are the International Bazaar and the Food Building for lots of choices. Though the strawberries and creme were near the Kid’s Midway and the Farmer’s Union is near the main entrance. 

There were three of us and we shared everything we bought. It was still more than enough food that way. Most of the time we only got one of each thing. The couple of times we got two of something it was nearly too much.

So go out and enjoy the fair if you like such things. There’s lots to see, and it helped distract me for a bit from some personal things I can’t do anything about right now because there is absolutely so much to take in. 

 

And if you can, drop a a few bucks into the Houston food bank so others can get something to eat as well as disaster clean up begins. You can donate here: Hurricane Harvey Relief. 

Have a wonderful time. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

EASY TO CUT AND PASTE LIST: 

Produce Exchange- The peaches are amazing. They have lots of fruit.

Fresh French Fries-These were quite good and not as greasy as I thought they would be. 

Harry Singh’s-Chickpea Roti was so good that we went back so my friend could take one home for dinner. 

Minneapple pie no ice cream-I bought one to bring home, made  nice treat for breakfast. 

Farmer’s Union Iced Coffee with soy milk-dark roast with soy milk was great

Strawberries and Cream-non-dairy whip-I loved this a lot.

Island Noodles-I do like wok-fried noodles. Very filling. 

Dole Whip-Three of us split one and it was sugary and fun. I don’t think I’d get it again though just not for me. 

Fried Green Tomatoes(small stand by main entrance)-was surprised that I liked these more than I thought.

Manny’s Tortas-Non-alcoholic Pineapple Pina Colada-this was fantastic. 

Sara’s Tipsy Pies-The Vegan Whiskey apple pie was fabulous. I loved it. 

Juanitas Fajitas -beans with tortilla-add some habanero salt and it’s super yummy(request without cheese).

Tot Boss-plain tater tots

Cinnamon Roasted Almonds in the International Bazaar

French Meadow-brown sugar scone

Holy Land-all their vegan things which I highly recommend. 

Falafel King (which has improved dramatically over the last few years)

Corn Roast-no butter

St. Martin’s Olives

Los Ocampos -Guac and chips

Veggie Pie’s -Frozen Grapes on a Stick

Burrito Mercado- Chili lime mango

Sonny’s Sprials-Potato on a stick

Preferred Pickles fried pickles

Ballpark Cafe – Onion rings, garlic fries

Chan’s Chicken on a Stick – Vegetable Fried Rice

Oodles of Noodles – Spicy Thai Noodles, spaghetti or penne with marinara

OOF-da Tacos – Vegetarian Taco without cheese

Potato Man and Sweety-Sweety’s Churros without whipped cream, unsure about dipping sauce

Weekend Road Trip: Runestone Museum

I am always a little surprised when people don't know about the crazy shit in their own state. I don’t mean about politics because that is raining on us everyday. And as someone who lived in Texas for over a decade I can confidently say that politics is not crazy fun shit. Just crazy shit.
No. What I mean is its myths, legends, history, and lore. Every place has them, and every place is filled with things strange and wondrous, big and small. 
Minnesota is no exception. In fact, Jon Stewart once referred to Minnesota as “crazier than you think” and he quite accurately hit the nail on the head with that statement. 
One of the odder pieces of Minnesota history involves a very large stone. 
Named the Kensington Runestone, it was uncovered by Oolof Ohman, a farmer in rural Solem, Douglas County, Minnesota, in 1898. (The stone is named for Kensington, MN, the nearest town). It weighs 202 lbs. and was supposedly found under an aspen tree by Oolof and his son. Currently on display at the Runestone Museum in Alexandria, MN. 
And I write “supposedly" because it is highly contentious whether this is real or not. A lot of people say it’s not and a lot others say that it is. But whether it is or not, it’s still part of Minnesota’s myth and history. Absolutely worth going to see. 
It is carved with Viking runestone symbols that at the time had fallen far out of use in this part of the world. It is argued that Oolof, who had nothing higher than a grade school education, would not have been able to know these 14th century markings. What’s more, the markings themselves are not just the usual runestone symbols used 500 years before the stone’s discovery, but there is also an underlying code in them. Additionally, if it is real, it would indicate that the Vikings had made it further inland, and earlier than first thought. But the whole of time is a very large concept and its continuous shifting to fill in missing pieces should no longer surprise us, yet it still does for some reason. 

Oolof insisted throughout his life that he did not fake this stone, and it cost him dearly. One of his children committed suicide over the humiliation and ridicule the family endured. Another left home to never return or speak to the family again.
There is great deal more information out there about the debate, but what I will tell you more about is the museum itself, because it offers up a few surprises of its own. 

Rumored to have been a favorite Minnesota haunt of Neil Gaiman (seems likely, given his fascination with folklore and mythology) it is also home to an impressive collection of regional Native American artifacts that were gifted to a doctor throughout his career in exchange for helping care for the community around him. They filled his office, basement, and home. 
Additionally there is an extensive collection and timeline set up about Pioneer life focused specifically on Minnesota’s Scandinavian roots. It culminates into an entire mock town set up outside the main building that has a pioneer shop, church, town hall, home, as well as… a building that is home to an almost life-size replica of a Viking merchant ship. 
There is also a section coming together that looks to be filled with geologic information about Minnesota that includes paleontology about the region. 
(The museum is also not far from the delightful Carlos Creek Winery - more on that later, and the spoiled, caviar-eating cats.)

Strange enough to make it onto Atlas Obscura , you should definitely put it on your weekend road trip bucket list.

What to Eat Wednesday: Vegan Food at the Mall of America

Love it or hate it, there are times when you end up at the Mall of America if you live in the Twin Cities (and even if you don't). I recently was there because, in my personal situation, it is a good place for me to go bra shopping -- the one time the internet does not cut it for me, as I wear an unusual size range. 

It can be a long day. A trying affair. It's crowded, bright, and loud (and you can take hours trying things on that don't fit right). And if you think you can't eat anything but french fries when everyone else is eating a full meal, it can make the day even longer. 

Things have come a long way in vegan food eating. And it even shows in the suburbs of the Twin Cities. The Mall of America even has its own Smart Dining Guide(though it does have a couple of things on here that are no longer, like my love... Disco Fries R.I.P).  The phone app is also pretty handy for such things. 

There are some obvious places such as Chipotle with vegan options like the Sofritas dish and Noodles and Co. which has a separate vegan menu you can request.

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Other places I have tried and like for fast food are Pita Pit and Naf Naf Grill- which has a clearly labeled menu of what is vegan or what is not, including a baklava.

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If you want something a bit nicer I would suggest two places that I like. My most recent discovery on Friday was a great surprise. 

First up would be Masu. A Japanese place that has a vegan menu with some good stuff on it such as this "caterpillar"

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The surprisingly great place, and not just great for mall food-actually good food, was Cantina Laredo.

Our server, Alexis, was all about helping out. She didn't hesitate for a second and listed entrees that could be made vegan and checked on tortillas without my asking. The restaurant offers "Modern Mexican Food" and well, it's yummy.

There are three entrees that can be made vegan and I tried two: Portobello Fajitas and Avocado Enchiladas (the third is Stuffed Poblano Peppers). They prepare guacamole fresh at your table and serve house made, spicy (not too hot) and more importantly-flavorful salsa. 

It is a place that is a bit more expensive than your average sit down place, but if you want a good meal while out at the mall you won't regret paying for it. I had plenty of leftovers that reheated nicely with some avocado mashed on top with salsa. The chimchurri sauce on the fajitas was aces and they made their own flour tortillas. The rice does have milk in it, so she doubled up on our black bean servings which was fine by me.

If you still have room for dessert afterwards there are two surprises that I adore at the MOA.

Cupcake offers at least two vegan flavors a day (sometimes more). I've had a fair number of them and like them all but I love anything with the strawberry frosting. And you can get them to go if you had too much to eat already.

If cupcakes are not for you, you can head over to Paciugo for vegan gelato or my new favorite a gelato "shake".

They have lots of flavors that are water and soy based. I had a "shake" made with strawberry gelato and orange San Pellegrino. Delightful.

Things to make your day easier.

Moreau on a Monday

Tucked away on a much less busy Parisian street is the home and atelier of symbolist painter Gustave Moreau.

He was a teacher as well as a painter whose pupils included Henri Matisse. He has work in some museums but mostly kept his work together with the idea of bequeathing a great collection that would be impactful in presentation if together. All told he produced some 8,000 works in his lifetime including illustration and sculpture, much of which is in the residence that is now the museum. 

The place is truly beautiful and he remodeled it so the working and display space were much bigger than the living space. Filled not only with his work but that of friends from around the world. I have read that some people become overwhelmed by the work and space, but I did not feel this way. Maybe it's because I have been to House on the Rock that I would not find anywhere overwhelming anymore. I also just like the style of decor a great deal. It is a touch gilded, a touch handcrafted but also indicates the use of at the time modern technologies. Artfully put together it makes the impression of someone vastly enamored of books and the world in general. He also did not whitewash all his work which I can appreciate a great deal. 

He was a sickly child and as such his mother(who was deaf yet managed their home and his career) lavished attention on Moreau  and he cared for her till she died. He was a childhood friend of Degas when they both were in Italy. He also at the time met Alexandrine Dureux whom he introduced to drawing. She would remain, right up until her death in 1890, his “best and only friend”. They never lived together but she had a home a short walking distance from his and they were together nearly everyday. When she died he bought all her possessions and burned all their correspondence. 

Moreau only had one solo exhibit in his entire life. 

He entered a piece into the famous Salon in which he received a medal and bad critical reviews so he did not exhibit again for many years. 

 

I took some pictures of some of my favorite pieces but not the one that truly took my breath away. I didn't see the point. There is not a way to capture it. I will include a link to it and some of its history. I encourage you to look at it but know that it does not do it justice-Jupiter and Semele 1895

What to Eat Wednesday: Vegan Paris

I have been asked so many times what did I eat in Paris. That’s fair. I wasn't so sure going into this trip it was going to be especially easy, and well... I was completely wrong. And I didn’t even make it to all the places I wanted to try. In the last few years, when traveling, efforts have been made to stay in Air Bnb rentals. This works out really great for having kitchens, which for me is essential at times, as I get sick of eating out on long trips. Plus it saves money. Being vegan, the hardest thing to find when traveling is breakfast, and a stop at a grocery store makes this so much easier and can ease the stress of dietary requirements. I’ve also gotten in the habit of packing a handful of things to take with such as granola/fruit bars/vegan jerky. I’ll grab chocolate and my favorite truffle oil almonds at the airport. 

Paris has plenty in the way of food for breakfast at most places, with bread, dark as night coffee, and piles of fruit. Which is most of what I ate in the mornings, both at cafes and in the apartment I was staying in. I couldn’t tell you the names of these places as I usually would just pick a cute place and get a coffee. With the exception of the morning of my arrival, when I stopped in at Shakespeare and Co.'s cafe for a very good mocha and bagel sandwich and absolutely unbeatable view of a busy French street and Notre Dame. And on a national holiday I did venture into Starbucks for a coffee since they were the only place open (it was packed full of people). 

There are countless beautiful fruit and vegetable stands, and of course, the smell of baking bread at the end of the work day (instead of mornings like most places) filling the streets as people line-up for baguette (because sometimes caricatures of things are real). I most certainly ate my fair share of warm baguette while visiting.  Strawberries are grown in France and they were hands down the best ones I’ve ever had. Paired with champagne each night (yes every night) and sometimes in the morning with mimosas made with passionfruit juice (my favorite of all the juices ever). One thing you learn when visiting Europe is that peanut butter, which is a staple of my morning diet, is not readily available. Nutella is everywhere, and much to my sadness is not vegan. But a trip to the grocery store, Franprix, that was right across the street from the apartment yielded a jar of something called Speculoos and it is amazing. I brought back some jars -- it was that good. Paired with rose jam that I bought at Versailles to see what the fuss was all about (and much to my chagrin fell quite in love with it, as well as dark chocolate made with rose petals and apples-the preferences of Marie Antoinette), it made for a wonderful treat in the morning or with that warm, after-a-long-day baguette. Really I have no idea how I’ve been living as a normal person since getting back. **A note about grocery shopping: Whereas things may not be clearly labeled as vegan, they do have labels spelling out what common allergens are in foods such as milk-so keep handy an app with translation if you don't know what those words are in French

The first long day was a trip out to Versailles. We got there early and stopped into the little cafe Angelina (in the main palace) for espresso and fruit. We wandered the grounds for quite a long time. As we headed out to Marie Antionette's Queen's Hamlet, which is a fair distance from the main palace, we came across a wonderful smelling oven in the park that was baking potatoes. They had elaborate toppings that were not vegan, but when asked for one with some oil, salt, and pepper on the golden russet cooked in an old fashion, outdoor oven-well, to say sitting on the grounds of Versailles as the sun rises above the trees while eating a wonderful treat like this was pretty ridiculously dreamy. ** I did not drink the strawberry juice as it had carmine in it and I didn't notice until after buying it.

At the end of the visit, having covered everything that was open, we ventured into the little city surrounding the palace to walk for about 10 minutes to Pur. A cafe with a sizable amount of vegan food (including chocolate pots). Much of it was premade in these adorable jars, and they were warmed up and served to you. The server attending the counter was so friendly and helpful. He spoke a bit of english, we spoke a bit of french, plus there's nothing a smile and politeness can't accomplish, honestly. Quinoa, veggies, hummus layered into the servings.

There were a couple of nights when we got back and were so wiped out that we didn't want to go to a restaurant. As luck would have it, the building we were staying in (built in the 17th Century and located in the Latin Quarter, which turned out to be an awesome place to stay) had a burrito place, Bocamexa, on the main level. And they had a vegan burrito plus guacamole and chips. Globalization at its finest if you ask me. I didn't manage to get a picture of the cute, very busy spot but I did get food there twice and was perfectly happy to lie in my bed at the end of a long day drinking champagne with my vegan burrito.

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Truly the trick to Paris and avoiding lines is to get up early and get going. Only sleeping about 5 hours a night as I was determined to see everything I possibly could while there (my brother asked me how I could consider this a vacation). One day that this was genuinely evident was the day spent at the Louvre. On certain days of the week they stay open late and I went on this day, so at one point left to have a late lunch/early dinner and then head back there. I had pretty much the healthiest meal I've ever had in my life. 

Le' bio d'Adam et Eve is about a 15 minute walk from the Louvre with the street light stops. It was lightly raining as well, so it was really charming to wander down the city streets on the way. 

They had pre-prepared salads with all the things you can think of that are good for you with tasty dressings and thankfully a chocolate pot with candied ginger on top(dark chocolate is easy to find in Paris and I brought home a lot of it).  They had sandwiches and other offerings as well. I had a half hummus sandwich with my salad and it was great to have the protein after walking so much. 

On one particular day I visited four museums(!). In between two of them dinner was had at Le Pain Quotidian. Not too far from d'Orsay, I ordered a fixed course meal that included vegan hot chocolate, dessert, salad, bread, and the main course. It was so pleasant after the long day headed into the long evening that we took our time enjoying the food. This is an excellent time to note that even when you stop for, say, french fries and a smoothie, which we did earlier in the day at Friends Burger, expect to take your time. Food is a leisurely pursuit and people linger over meals. Many places also cook at lower temperatures than here in the states, so it can take longer for things to arrive. 

Squeezed in between the presidential elections and over the national holiday in Europe of May Day, where everything was closed (except Starbucks), I spent the day at Disneyland Paris. I had done some reading about what to do about food out here, and I did bring some snacks for the day (but also there was popcorn). I pre-booked a table at the Agrabah Cafe as was recommended by some travel blogs. And that was an excellent piece of advice. Disney filled up early but also emptied early and we managed to go on nearly every ride and experience that was open. When we went to eat, people were being turned away who didn't have reservations and most of them ended up at food carts and the like. The buffet style cafe was middle eastern fare and offered a variety of vegetable curries, salads, breads, fruit, and even dessert. It was a bit expensive but that's Disney for you. At the end of the day at Disney we headed to downtown Disney to see what they had on offer and stopped for a drink at Planet Hollywood (so-all the "theme" places are American. It's really funny. A Sports bar, A Western Bar, Planet Hollywood, Starbucks, American 50's burger place). Our bartender was exceptionally sweet, and well, pretty sure that Planet Hollywood hadn't been remodeled since the 90's.

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The next three places are my favorite places we ate including the best pizza I've had in my life and I mean before I was vegan too.

First up: Raw Cakes, 100% vegan and gluten-free. A bright pink place in between visiting the catacombs and hopping a train to a cemetery, we stopped in here thinking only to find dessert but managed to have a delicious veggie burger as well. I loved my caramel baton and mint raw cake.

The next place was our most expensive and elegant meal that much to my joy FINALLY included french macarons. Gentle Gourmet is an all vegan fine dining restaurant and has been open for less than a year, but you would never know it from going there. Located on a city street corner across from the river there is lots of people watching to be done as well. The meal was superb and I had morel mushroom risotto and a blueberry caviar appetizer paired with espresso and macarons, and my companion had a sesame crusted tofu dish that was divine. And the presentation-well, just look for yourself:

The last place I am going to tell you about I ended up at because an Indian place I wanted to try was closed. I had been hoping to get here and I did not make it to the vegan burger place they also own but I do not in anyway regret my choice of pizza. 

Hank's Vegan Pizza was a magical, hip, two story joint that had pizza with a crust like a flaky croissant. It was drizzled with truffle oils, and topped with sauces and fresh veggies. The meal included a salad and fresh made vegan cookie. I do not think I can do justice to describing this pizza. It was melty, fragrant, crusty but not hard -- wonderful. I so wish there was a place like this here. I absolutely have to go back just to try the vegan burger place. The owner was working the counter and was beyond thrilled when I told him how much I loved it. (Truly lovely people in Paris.) I really think that no matter your diet, if you ate here you would be pleased.

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I was going to include the bars we stopped at and a word about Delta's vegan food but I'll save that for another time as this is so long and I am now pretty hungry and deeply regretting I can't have any of this food right now. Thank you for reading! Happy food, happy planet!

Weekend Roadtrip: Nelson-Atkins Art Museum

I have a wishlist of museums I hope to visit. I got the chance a couple of months to mark some big ones off the list by visiting Paris(where else?) and was so overwhelmed at times with joy and excitement it actually brought tears to my eyes. Traveling is a big deal to me. In this world of -been there-done that -posted it on social media-it can seem like there's nothing left out there that is new for anyone. This is not true of course and that perception can be somewhat disheartening. And in reality less than 20% of the world's population ever gets on a plane(another disheartening fact). It is a privilege to travel and I don't think I am ever going to stop feeling that way. The more I do it the more I want to do it. Genuinely the more I want everyone to do it. It does on the whole seem to make us better people. Yes, there are exceptions to this rule but I have yet to take any trip that I didn't get something out of it. Learned something, experienced something. Big or small. Short or long. Everywhere has something to offer. I've written a few times about Kansas City here and here and this is one more post to encourage you to visit sometime because there was nothing that was more of a delightful surprise than visiting the Nelson-Atkins Art Museum. 

I knew there was an art museum in KC, I just had no idea how lovely it truly is until I got there. It's also fairly sizable and I enjoyed my time here a great deal. It opened in 1933 and has somewhere around 30,000 pieces of art in it's collection. Some of the exhibits are set up as though you are entering temples and cloisters and that adds to the atmosphere. I was there when a big, dramatic storm was rolling in over the city as well. Being in a museum when it's raining is one of my favorite ways to spend a day(or night).

Weekend Road Trip: Salisbury House in Des Moines, Iowa

I recently shared with you some places to get vegan food in Des Moines, Iowa. Now I will share with you something interesting to do while you are there. 

I am someone who likes to tour old mansions, castles, etc...I have found that all the books, all the websites and all the museums are wonderful but they do little to demonstrate to you what everyday life was like for people. Even wealthy people. Of course another reason to tour these big old houses is to see art and artifacts that no one even knows is out there half the time.  I will say at this point in the post that I draw a line at plantations. I will not tour historic plantations. I just cannot bring myself to do it. There is nothing beautiful about them to me. I have toured places where slaves were held and forced to live and since that point I just cannot romanticize in any way living like a "southern belle" on a large piece of land and in a mansion built on human bondage. Believe me, I am aware of the dark stories of many of the historical properties of the world but for my own personal being, the stain of slavery in America is one that I cannot ignore particularly well. 

I also am starting to wonder at this point in my life to the wisdom of all these old, empty properties when so many live without in this world of plenty. And there are a lot of them. I have often joked whenever I know I will be near a small town to look up the "the jackass who moved away, made money and moved back to show off how much better he was than everyone else" and this is pretty much true everywhere. 

The one thing that seems to be good about some of these places is that they do host charitable events, community events, field trips for children, etc...Versailles now belongs to the people of France, for example and all the lands are parks open to everyone. 

Salisbury House is such a place. Built in five years for $1.5 million and furnished for another $1.5 million dollars between 1923-1928, the Weeks family who owned the now defunct Armand Make Up Company acquired some 10,000 objects, books and antiquities to furnish the 42 room 22,000 sq. ft. home. As is often the case, a downturn in economics as well as family tragedy cost them their fortune. Including one of the sons being in a car accident that killed someone. The house is an odd mashup of styles which is not often how they are decorated. Usually one style will be chosen and it will be demonstrated throughout the house. This one has Italian influence, Gothic Tudor, the eldest daughter's room was fashioned after a room at Versailles (of course-pretty common for the well-to-do), etc...The outside of the house is modeled after Salisbury House in England which was built in the 15th century. 

Many of the objects have been sold to pay the bills but they are slowly being reacquired. 

I recently found two pieces of Armand makeup that I have added to my historical collection of objects. They are nearly a 100 years old and since I have a book by the name of Armand El Dorado-

Well, it seemed fitting.

Wunderkammer: Paleontology and Comparative Anatomy Gallery in Paris

On a particularly rainy day on my trip to Paris I set out to visit somewhere unusual. Paris is most romanticized for it's lovely spring days and blossoming pink trees but if you ask me the city's beauty is really in the rain. The grey buildings with their slate blue tops and old world architecture set against the drama of the clouds give the city the ethereal feel of walking in a dream. The diffused light brings the flowers and greenery startlingly to life. You are wandering in a painting. The expectation of a mysterious stranger set to lead you on an adventure is not so unrealistic on these days. 

The influence of the Victorian Era is evident everywhere in Paris. As one of the greatest times in modern history for the pursuit of research and art with Paris as one of the culture centers of the world it makes a good deal of sense. Many people associate the Victorian Era with strange death practices and stuffy clothing but in reality there have been few times in history that the advancement of science has ever been greater. Of course this was not without a price as the damage done to the environment by the Victorians was one that can never be undone. But if only they had known then what we know now- I suspect a good deal more care would've been taken to assure the legacy of the world. The planet and nature was something that was to be conquered and tamed. Not left the way it was to grow and evolve. It wrought a lot of destruction to land, oceans, humans and animals alike.  But in their own way, they treasured the planet and all it had to offer. And a number one priority to many of them was to try to educate the population of the cities from which they hailed. 

Many of them chose to do this by bringing back specimens from trips and voyages from the far reaches of the lands. They would keep them in different collections in their homes or smaller museums. Then in 1898 a group of people got together and built one of the most comprehensive collections of paleontology in the world as well as fossils and thus The Gallery of Paleontology and Comparative Anatomy was born. One of 14 different museums and libraries put together by this society it stands out for it's absolutely unreal exhibits and collections.  I visited a handful of these institutes as well but this particular one was just beyond comprehension. And truthfully besides knowing the things I could see here, I also wanted to visit the site where one of my favorite movies was filmed The Extraordinary Adventures of Adele Blanc-Sec

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The main path in the gardens that leads to a dozen different museums. The large building you see is the Grand Gallery of Evolution. For another post.  Here we turn left...and see this upon entering..

What to Eat Wednesday: Kansas City, MO (and one little trip to KC, Kansas)

I wasn't sure what to expect from a visit to Kansas City, MO. Truthfully, it wasn't a place I had thought much about at all.  So when I got there and found good food, cool shops, amazing museums and great coffee I was really happy. I should at this point in my life not be surprised to find cool things in the Midwest. People don't think much of it usually as the coasts and Las Vegas get all the attention. But if you have a bit of a sense of adventure you can find some awesome stuff out here. I mean now everyone wants to go to House on the Rock so there you go. 

I didn't eat out a whole lot in KC because I had an AirBnB apartment and being able to cook at "home" especially on trips that are a week or so long or more- I really appreciate. Don't get me wrong I obviously love to eat out but I also try to watch my salt intake and calorie intake and consume a certain amount of fresh food per day. 

With that said I can start with a link to a natural grocery I went to in KC, Kansas and picked up some stuff. I really like going to co-ops and things in other cities because you can find local/regional things you can't get at home. I almost always end up bringing something back from the grocery store. A trip to Nature's Own provided some of those things including regional coffee beans to bring back. 

I know KC is famous for it's barbecue but as a vegan this is not something I was looking for and as I looked into what to eat in KC I found a pretty big, thriving international community. There was a lot to pick from but hours being limited here and there narrowed some of my options at times. One place I did go in the international market area was Bo Ling's Chinese. I made it there just before they were going to close down until dinner but they took no issue with that and seated me. The server was a charming, little human who had no problem answering all my questions and double checking information, something I always appreciate in a new place. I had a yummy green bean stir fry which as it turns out is some of my favorite stir fry. I always thought I hated green beans having grown up on the brown, mushy ones from cans but I love a fresh green bean (or 20) and if it can be flash fried in a wok with some spice, all the better.  And of course, pot stickers. I could eat about a hundred veggie pot stickers in a sitting.  I don't but I could. They had an adequate fresh spring roll. I have to say adequate because nothing lives up to my favorites. These are acceptable *no issue* except the they are not from Vo's in Minneapolis. Not the spring rolls fault at all.

My favorite place I ate at in Kansas City was Eden Alley. An all vegetarian/vegan cafe with lunch, dinner and a rotating brunch menu. I ate there twice. Once for lunch and once for brunch. I also ate outside on a patio surrounded by Spanish style architecture. It was quite lovely.

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For lunch I had a potato burrito, pita hummus plate and raw chocolate avocado pie.

I had one of the most fabulous french toast dishes I've ever had with grilled orange slices and chocolate chips.

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I highly recommend this stop on your trip to KC. 

There are a lot of little corner bars and restaurants offering up many un-vegan friendly treats but luckily for me there was some yummy french fries and cocktails to be found right on the corner of the apartment I was staying in. French fries for me at this point are mostly just a vacation treat. I don't eat them much anymore which is very different from when I was younger. 

They made really confident and well-put together cocktails. I am so super picky about this now. I don't drink much and my personal life is filled with people who are exceptional drinks makers so when I go out I am often disappointed. These were good. So stop into The Phoenix KC for a salty and sweet break. Vacation is for making bad choices and you might as well do it in style. Tasty, tasty style.

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Marie Curie Museum

I recently visited Paris, France for the first time. I had an amazing time of learning and exploring. One of my favorite things I went to was Marie Curie's decontaminated lab and office. She is the only woman awarded two Nobel Prizes in Science, first female professor at the Sorbonne, was given a gram of Radium from President Hoover (Radium is millions of times more radioactive than Uranium), she developed and refined radiography including creating a mobile unit she took into WWI to help soldiers, her lab staff was largely female which ultimately helped lead to Marguerite Perey discovering Francium in 1939. Also there's an actual  Museum dedicated to a WOMAN! How about that?? Oh and of course Curium is named for her which burns so hot it turns purple. 

Visit the website: here. 

Pictures include snaps of dubious radium products, her lab and office as well as scientific instruments.

Ellen Ochoa, Adventurer Geek Girl

Gonna write about one of my favorite things today: Space Ladies!! Born on May 10, 1958 in Los Angeles, California, Ellen Ochoa received her master of science and doctorate degrees at Stanford University. She was selected by NASA in 1990 and in 1991 became the world's first Hispanic female astronaut. A mission specialist and flight engineer, Ochoa is a veteran of four space flights, logging more than 950 hours in space. She is the first Hispanic Director of the Johnson Space Center (an awesome place) and the 2nd female Director. 
She has been awarded the highest NASA honor, the Distinguished Service Medal and the Presidential Distinguished Rank Award. There are five schools named after her around the country! This year she will be inducted into the Astronaut Hall of Fame. 

Read More about her here: https://www.nasa.gov/…/jo…/about/people/orgs/bios/ochoa.html

More Here: Johnson Space Center

Ida Laura Pfeiffer, Adventurer Geek Girl

Ida Laura Pfeiffer  (October 1797, Vienna – October 1858), was an Austrian traveler and travel book author. She was one of the first female explorers, whose popular books were translated into seven languages. She was a member of geographical societies of both Berlin and Paris, but not of Royal Geographical Society in London due to her sex.

Making record-setting, ground-breaking voyages and treks between 1842 and 1858, she collected and carefully documented thousands of plant, insect, marine, and mineral specimens, which currently reside in the Natural History Museums of Berlin and Vienna. Her 1856 collection of Malagasy (Madagascar) plants and insects was one of the first substantial looks at how unique the island was on a floral and entomological level, and many of her specimens were brand new species, even though she didn’t know it at the time.

On top of her biological specimens, Mrs. Pfieffer also collected an invaluable account of many of the world’s cultures, from the unique perspective of a female travelling solo, in a time when that was nearly unheard of for proper women. Despite her modesty, the fact that she was a mother of grown sons and a widower, her travels and travelogues were initially questioned and looked down upon as “lesser.” By the end of her life, though, she was highly respected and sought after by many notable exploration and geographical societies. Because of her gender, she had gained access to many places and cultures that shunned and attacked men, and gave a new perspective to many cultures that had been previously documented only by male explorers.
Download some of her work here for free: http://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/author/3807

Other Sources:

Mental Floss

Britannica

Red Rock Canyon

The new year is in full swing and I am trying to keep my head above water in many ways right now as I have a lot going on. I want to finally get on a regular posting schedule here for one thing. But it hasn't worked out. I just never know what is going to happen in a day lately. 

Since it is a new year and that means new travel plans that I've finally really begun making (actual tickets and stuff), I tend to start going through my previous years travel photos. Which means I am going to be telling you stuff I did. More of it I suppose I should say as I have shared some already. I am a big and small travel person. I pretty much love all trips and no matter how tiny a place is I research every thing I can find about it. I find what makes it unique and go for it. Every place has something if you're willing to look. 

One of those things was visiting Red Rock Canyon. I go to Las Vegas a fair amount.(Look here for some food ideas. There's more too. Just search my food tag or Adventure tag!) I am always looking for new things to do there not just be on the strip. As a non-gambling Las Vegas patron the not casino related parts of being there are what I am interested in: food, shows, shopping, the weird, random attractions that make up the hotels. 

This time I adventured away from the strip by visiting the Hoover Dam (coming soon) and Red Rock Canyon. You can do both in one day if you like or you can make Red Rock Canyon and the surrounding area a full outdoor adventure. You'll find more information on the visitor site. 

If you can't go the whole day there is an approx. hour long drive around the main part of the canyon just to see to it. I did this combined with stopping for shorter adventures and photos. When I was there (July) it was beyond hot (115 degrees) and as a fair skinned person I tend to melt. I met out my time in the extreme heat so as not to pass out or get sick. Weather is weather and if you're gonna base your life around going to places only where the weather is perfect, well you're not going to be visiting many places or leaving the house much. 

The desert is beautiful in it's own way. Given the choice I go for the forest. But there is the allure of going somewhere that seems to be fairly lifeless on the surface but is filled with critters great and small if you look close enough. One thing Nevada is especially good for as you move away from the cities is raptors. You can see some of the amazing flying birds our world has to offer. California condors, vultures, hawks. And of course, the mountains are beautiful and formidable. Here is some snap shots from my trip. See you soon!

Ella Cerulean's Instagram Account

Come follow Ella Cerulean's Instagram account and see how she views the world.

A Few Favorites Memories from 2016

Looking back on 2016 I picked a few things from the year I really enjoyed. I haven't written about all these things yet nor does this cover everything I thought was good about the year but here are a few cool things:

I started the year off in Costa Rica for a couple of weeks. I wrote about it a lot since it was such an amazing place. Here's one post: Costa Rica and a picture of me zip lining over the jungle.

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Not too long after that I went to Houston for a wedding and was thrilled to go somewhere I had always wanted to visit as a kid: Johnson Space Center

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Then there was my favorite art show from the year at Rogue Buddha Gallery: Rachel Girard's Dolls.

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I had my first craft show in March in Madison, Wisconsin. It was wonderful. Geek Craft Expo.

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I published my first e-book which spent a day at #1 on Amazon. You can buy it here.

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I attended a few events hosted by the MN Historical Society and really got a kick out of them. You can read about some of them here.

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I attended my first World Con. Which included a visit to some beautiful places in KC, MO. I will be writing more about them soon but here's a snap from the art museum.

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I visited Las Vegas again. Seems to be a main stay in my travel. Wrote about the incredible food. Also took a day trip to the Hoover Dam and Red Rock Canyon as I've wanted to go there for sometime as I am working on crossing off all these iconic American places on my travel list.

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That's just a few good things.

There are more things actually. It was all-in-all not a bad year for me personally even if it seemed so very overwhelming for so many other people. 

I'm not sure what 2017 will bring but I am trying very hard to look for the good in the seeming rising dark.

The National Museum of Toys/Miniatures

Tis the season for toys and fun! 

One of my favorite things I did this year was visit the Toy and Miniature Museum  in Kansas City, MO. 

The collection of dollhouse pieces is especially impressive. Spend at least an hour here unless you're like me and want to read everything than make it about 3 hours.

Cloud Bridge Nature Reserve

It's my birthday in a few days and I've been looking back on the last year thinking about what has been my favorite things about it. It's been a year much better than last year for starters so, that's good. I lost both my pets last year and that took a lot out of me. There were other things but I think that was the hardest. This year has had a fair number of annoyingly expensive issues but whatever. Money is money, sometimes there's enough of it and sometimes there is not and that's unlikely to change. 

One thing that has been stellar is that I have traveled more this year than any previous year. I usually spend about 2 1/2 weeks to three weeks traveling per year. This last year I've already traveled over a month's worth of time and that is amazing to me. I hope it continues to grow. 

One of the most remarkable places I've ever been, I went to in Jan. It was the Cloud Bridge Nature Reserve in Costa Rica. Located high in the mountains it is a place of astonishing beauty. Cloud forests have become one of my favorite places to explore. They are usually amazing and honestly, the temperatures are often the kind I like. 
 Cloud Bridge is no exception. Plus, I am a total butterfly obsessed nut and this a great place to be for that interest. Including getting to see the glass-winged butterfly in the wild. We took more pictures than I can count so, I picked a few favorites and they don't even begin to do this place justice. I might add, this is not an easy hike and as such I get to have pride in how hard I worked to get around the reserve.